The Revived Bustle of 1883- Mesh Bustle

The slim dresses that lasted until 1883 were swiftly replaced with a totally new style in 1883 when in the UK the bustle reappeared. It had been introduced in Paris 3 years earlier, but had failed to take off.  This was a new bustle in a much more exaggerated shape.

The bustle consisted of a straw filled cushion sewn into the skirt with a series of steel half hoops inserted in the skirt lining down to the ground. This had the effect of throwing the skirt out almost horizontally from waist level behind. Women appeared to have the hind legs of a horse.

There was much less drapery with this second form of bustle silhouette. What there was, soon disappeared from the skirt. Drapery moved to the sides or to the front panel of the skirt, but ball dresses remained more draped. 

To recognize this silhouette look for a smoother more shelf like outline worn with a very tailored or quite structured square shouldered bodice. Do remember to check the hair for that tighter less free frizzed look shown above. It appears more to belong to the 1890s than the mid Victorian eras. Despite the gown drapery, the lady in pink is post 1880 as the tighter neater hairstyle owes nothing to Victorian ringlet styles.

One other factor that emphasizes the second bustle is the use of fabrics such as velveteen, plushest, and sateen. Because of the economic depression between 1880-1890 cheaper materials were frequently used. The wealthy still dressed well, but using a different, wider range of materials often gave an effect like steel amour.