TRIVIA ON CRINOLINES

 

 

The Horsehair Crinoline Petticoat of 1830s

In the 1830s a linen material woven with horsehair called crinoline was first used for cloth petticoats. The word crinoline comes from the French for 'crin' and 'lin', meaning horsehair and linen respectively. This version of a petticoat was the original crinoline and later the name continued in use incorrectly, but universally for the caged or hooped underskirt frames.

In the 1840s flounces were added to the full skirts and these gave an illusion of extra skirt width.

The new skirt style which emerged in 1841 was achieved by a method of gauging fabric into organ or cartridge pleats which introduced yet more fullness. This was abandoned in 1846 for flat pleating which gave even more width. After 1845 double flounced skirts helped push the shape out, making the skirt look even broader		  

Picture of the back of a lady in her underwear and cage crinoline frame.

  

Cage Crinoline or Artificial Crinoline of 1856

As the decade progressed, more and more petticoats were added until the skirts were very full. For decency as well as fashion a minimum of six petticoats was considered essential. They became very heavy and unbearable in summer heat. 

At last in 1856 the cage crinoline petticoat or artificial crinoline was introduced. With this support, ladies had to wear just one petticoat to soften the cage ridges. Of course as gusts of wind often blew the crinolines sideways, long drawers became essential underwear.

Basic frame crinoline giving domed appearance.

 

1860 - Crinoline Fullness Moves to Skirt Back

The skirt reached its maximum width in 1860 when the emphasis began to slope toward the back of the skirt. This gave the skirt a more pyramid shape which was frequently achieved when skirts were made of several panels. Fullness was reduced at the waist and hips making the skirt lie smooth over the stomach and the fan like shaped panels spread out at floor level.

Picture of a crinoline 1858.

Picture of a crinoline 1863. 

 

Picture of steel hoops.1869

Picture of a crinoline petticoat 1863.1863

Picture of a petticoat support 1873.1873

Picture of a petticoat support 1875.1875

Picture of a crinoline sloping to the back 1867.1867

 

The Emergence of the Polonaise

The back began to develop an almost train like quality. Eventually the front flattened and the fullness swept even further to the back of the skirt. By 1864 the support of a crinoline frame was decreasing in use. The double skirt became fashionable again.

Most women were wearing a modified form of the crinoline without upper hoop rings by 1867. Just a few steel hoops were left at the bottom, but now at least two petticoats were needed to stop hollows appearing in the silhouette. As had happened a century before with double skirt styles, it was not long before the skirts were being looped and drawn up into a puffed effect similar to the polonaise of the eighteenth century. 

 

The Tournure

Crinolines were still worn, but they simply changed their shape. By 1869 the flounce frilled horsehair tournure dress improver or bustle was the undergarment to own to achieve the fashionable silhouette of the day.

 

Picture of a flounce frilled horsehair tournure dress1872

 

Click on the links below for more information on Victorian clothing!

 
The Corset The Parasol Cloak vs Cape Tussie Mussie

 

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