LEARN ABOUT CLOAKS/ CAPES

The correct term for the full garment is cloak.  The correct costume history term for the attached collar or small extension that falls over the shoulders is called cape.   However as the small cape developed into two and even three layers which often reached the waist, the word cape became used in an interchangeable way.  Hooded cloaks were often referred to as capes and were sometimes known as Capuchins.

I believe the term cape should not be applied to any cloak longer than hip length and that a cape is often of a more frivolous style than a cloak.

Early cloaks were very simple in cut. They could and still can be easily achieved by cutting a circle or near circle of fabric with a hole for the head - these were the sort that doubled as a blanket. The cloak used to prevent Queen Elizabeth 1st wetting her feet was more of a decorative flourishing fashion appendage.

Although cloaks continued to be used they developed into sophisticated lined, cut and even quilted semi shaped fashion garments, for indoor and outdoor wear. 

The earliest cloaks were circular cloaks or wraps based on a circular shape.  They can be anything from a half circle to a whole circle.

Fitted cloaks are more modern and involve some tailoring, because in some part they are shaped to fit the body, usually around the shoulders.  They were first popular in the renaissance, but we mostly think of them as Victorian Opera Cloaks.

Finally there is the easy to make gathered cloak which began life in the middle ages.  Either a rectangle or gores of joined fabric pieces are gathered onto a collar and the edges encased into the collar.  Such spectacular cloaks are for those who like to make an entrance, Lord of the Rings fantasy players are good examples.

Cloaks in the C16th to C18th

Long cloaks were popular with both sexes through the 16^th and 17^th centuries, although it is fair to say that women saw them as functional and respectable cover up garments, rather than fashionable.  From about 1750 every British village woman owned a hooded cloak which was the usual outdoor wear.  Riding dress used tailoring in coat making, but even by 1800 few women wore highly tailored outer coats then called the redingote At the turn of the nineteenth century, tailoring with woolen cloth as we know it today was only in its infancy.

Between 1820 and 1840 cloaks were always more favored by less fashion conscious older women as they were such a utilitarian item, but cloaks do appear regularly in documentation from 1740 to 1840.  Some cloaks like these shown in illustrations above and below reached to the feet and others, like the Cardinal cloak similar to the C18^th Cloak described below, rested about 6 or so inches from the ground.

Victorian Long Cloaks Versus Short Cloaks/Capes

The Victorians favored a wide variety of styles of cloaks that include mantles and shorter capes as well as redingotes and pelisse coats, for both winter and summer.  The loose fullness of a cloak was highly suitable for wearing over the wider romantic skirts and later the crinolines of the era.  It was also a perfect loose covering to disguise pregnancy in the Victorian era always kept hidden from the public eye.  As well as longer versions, shorter cloaks were very

The short cloak construction was often merged with the hip length mantelet styles that became popular at the same time.  Sometimes it is hard to tell where a cloak or cape ends and a mantelet begins. The mantelet and the dolman, along with the short cape were both useful styles that developed and changed as the crinoline gained back fullness and the bustle emerged.  The bustle contour needed carefully contoured top clothing to preserve the hind leg like silhouette.

Until 1910 full length cloaks and capes were still worn, but often by more mature women.  After that date they became rare by day, disappearing by 1915 mostly only to be seen then on Red Cross Nurses and service women.

1890s were ideal.  In costume history terms this was the era of "La Belle Epoque' and the decorative capes are a good illustration of the embellishment skills executed at the time when everything was made as ornate and beautiful in keeping with the mood of society.

Click on the links below for more information on Victorian clothing!